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Article Title: At the Partridge Inn, There's a Flair for Meringue

Edition: February 2001
Category: Dining Out
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The drive from Barre/Montpelier to Stowe is so stunning, the scenery is so captivating and the monoliths of stone on either side of the road like giant sculptures formed a gazillion years ago are so humbling, that it's regrettable you just can't stop and get a good, long look.

Soon enough you're in the midst of the hustle, bustle and charm of Stowe village. Left onto Mountain Road and The Partridge Inn is a bit up the road on the right. Dana and Debbie Wehe are the chef/owners of this fine restaurant that has had a reputation for years as serving fine seafood and desserts.

Debbie is now the pastry chef in the restaurant (although she denies that nomenclature.) She says she learned and gathered experience on the job and considers herself a baker, not a professional chef. She never had professional training, but my what a baker this lady is!

There's a lovely, warm and welcoming New England Inn feeling in the restaurant and the Wehes go to great lengths to make their customers feel at home.

The restaurant, which was an inn during the 1950s and 1960s called the Mountain Chalet, is located in a 19th century Vermont farmhouse. As the place evolved, it became a full-time restaurant in the late 1960s.

Their chef is from the Cape and upholding the quality of their seafood is of paramount importance to the couple. The fabulous desserts, according to Dana, "are Debbie's doings."

Debbie comes from the coal mining area near Pittsburgh. Dana grew up in Ithaca, New York and they met in Stowe; she moved into an apartment above his, and Dana and his roommate decided to show the new kid -- Debbie -- around town. That was thirteen years ago and they've married and skied and traveled and run a beautiful restaurant for the past nine years.

As I entered the restaurant, I was greeted by a magnificently-presented feast of whole boiled Maine lobster, northern cold water oysters on the half shell and, of course, an array of desserts.

Debbie's Valentine desserts were meringue shells on a bed of raspberry sauce filled with an assortment of colorful fruits: kiwis, strawberries, blueberries and blackberries. There was a second dessert: a double chocolate mousse pate consisting of dark chocolate and white chocolate mousse on a bed of raspberry sauce with a strawberry. The pate? It was divine!

Chocolate Pate From the Partridge Inn

Cream together:
1 cup butter
1/4 cup sugar

Beat in:
4 pasteurized egg yolks

Beat in:
2 tablespoons Frangelico
2 teaspoons vanilla

Stir in slowly:
8 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, melted and cooled slightly

Fold in:
1 cup heavy cream, whipped

Assemble:
Divide recipe in half, add 4 ounces white chocolate instead of semi-sweet chocolate to one half.

Line loaf pan with plastic wrap. Layer 1/2 of semi-sweet chocolate mixture; next layer all of white chocolate mixture, top with remaining semi-sweet chocolate mixture.

Chill overnight. Serves 8.


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