Article Title: Journey into Decadence This Valentine's Season (Check your Cholesterol at the Door)

Edition: February 2001
Category: Dining Out
Author: Edie Black Zfass
Article:

I could hardly wipe the smile off my face! When I tell you that this journey into the land of dessert decadence is not for the artery challenged, and when I tell you that this journey is not for the lipid challenged, believe my taste buds. When I tell you that if I were to be charged with the task of pronouncing judgment upon which dessert decadence I'd choose to savor for my last meal on earth, I'd entreat, "Cupid, sound your trumpet! Summon the troops! Rather to die by arrows plunged deep into my heart than be forced to make such a cruel and heartless decision!" On the other hand, now that I've had a full nanosecond to deliberate, I believe I'll have them all! One by one each scrumptious morsel will be a blissful celestial journey, probably in more ways than one.

So as Valentine's Day approaches, choose your departure, folks. Death by Cupid's firing squad or death by arterial clogging (or if you're lucky maybe both!)

The rapture of the hedonistic palate might demand a price, but who can dispute the worth of such indulgence? But what the heck? It's Valentine's Day! Could death by dessert decadence be so bad after all? A fair and square exchange, to be sure.

But not to get carried away. We're talking about Valentine's Day and love and life and romance and enjoying it all to the max. And my take on life is that delectable desserts add more than just that "je ne sais quoi" quality to the scheme of things. My passionate position on desserts is that they are the ultimate ambrosial "sais quoi" essential to well being (apologies to the French.) I submit that that delectable "sais quoi" quality goes a long way toward spicing things up. Might not most agree that a little spicing and sparking up now and again is nice? Like very nice? So, on that premise, I approached some experts, while arduously trying to refrain from dancing anticipatory fandangos. This was one of my tougher assignments, you understand, one which clearly demanded hardship pay for a hardship post. Someone had to do it.

Dessert Devotees Make it So Sweet
The culinary industry is hard work and the celebrated chefs are as diverse as the industry itself. There is, nevertheless, an important common thread that I was able to weave into the tapestry of my discussions with these remarkable people. They are singularly devoted to their demanding and challenging profession. They have in common superior efficiency, a nurturing character and an eagerness to please. Each reaches for perfection in the creation of that special magic to delight the eye and palate. The ephemeral nature of their art and creativity notwithstanding, the chefs pour their heart and originality into their work. Each presentation to a patron is a debut, a triumph to be exclaimed over and savored. Given the obvious irresistible temptations faced on an hourly basis, I queried each chef about strategies for keeping their weight under control. According to Chef Adrian Westrope at the New England Culinary Institute, the temptation to eat everything you make is always there. One of the secrets, apparently, is only to taste. You want to taste and critique as you go along but not to eat it all.

"You just know when you've got to quit," he says. The other strategy is not exactly a secret. Discipline. Yeah, right!

As though we're not sufficiently bombarded from all quarters by confusing health food information, some exciting information is trickling down that chocolate might actually provide antioxidant (the current nutritional nirvana) properties. Bring on the M & M's, the Baby Ruth's, the Snicker's Bars!

But hold on; let's not get carried away. While polyphenol flavonoids occur naturally in the cocoa plant, processing decreases these antioxidant gifts. Besides which, they're much more plentiful in fruits and vegetables, without adding all that fat and sugar. Do take heart, though. Apparently, chocolate is not a "no no" any longer. It has become a "yes yes" if applied to palate and heart with a certain degree of restraint.

The Roots of Cocoa
Cocoa beans are native to South America and in its first state were used as currency. The Aztec, Toltec and Mayan civilizations enjoyed the bean extract over 3000 years ago. The beverage Xocoatl (bitter water) was a hot chocolate drink flavored with chilies, nutmeg and vanilla seed and served in a golden goblet to ceremoniously welcome visitors. The Conquistadors then brought it to Queen Isabella in Spain. Served as a hot chocolate drink, she liked the taste of it, but found it too course. The addition of sugar created a beautiful chocolate flavor to that milky drink. In 1880, Lindt invented "conching," which is a process of refining the chocolate in large shell-shaped machines with granite rollers, made right here in Barre, Vermont. (Conscientious citizen that I am, I am compelled to contribute to the local economy by consuming unmentionable amounts of chocolate). Conching mixes, grinds and allows volatile fatty acids to escape, making it smoother and more mellow through heating and cooling. It aerates the mix, which drives off moisture and acids, thereby enhancing the quality and flavor of the chocolate.

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